Safilo CEO Angelo Trocchia on Isabel Marant Launch – WWD

MILAN — Isabel Marant is unveiling its first eyewear assortment in a licensing settlement with Safilo Group, which indicators an elevated consideration to an area buyer, in response to Angelo Trocchia, chief govt officer of the Italian producer.

“Luxurious will at all times be a phase prosperous shoppers will gravitate towards, however there are enterprise alternatives out there via licenses which have a distinct scale and which have an area significance and worth,” Trocchia defined.

Safilo’s objective, he continued, is “not simply to tick off a model,” and add licenses to its present pool. Zeroing in on “a transparent shopper goal or geographic want” is more and more key.

Working example, Isabel Marant’s assortment of sun shades and optical frames, which launches for spring 2021, embodies the model’s “Parisian aesthetic, with a recognizable and complex model and French creativity,” Trocchia noticed. Leveraging “a robust connection between Safilo’s design group and the style home allowed to translate the essence of the model into the glasses — which is the fantastic thing about the problem.”

The gathering, underneath a 10-year licensing settlement, contains a variety of timeless shapes crafted in skinny acetate and enhanced by distinctive particulars, such because the model’s signature Silver Leaf as a steel trim on the entrance or leaf- formed nose-pads. The chiseled wire-core is subtly seen via the bilayer acetate of the temples, and the Isabel Marant emblem sits on the exterior left temple. The tip-tip is formed as a leaf.

The gathering might be launched with an advert marketing campaign starring Rebecca Leigh photographed by Juergen Teller.


A photograph from the Isabel Marant eyewear marketing campaign 
Juergen Teller-courtesy picture

Trocchia mentioned he believes “the patron desires an increasing number of to be handled as an individual — the truth is, I don’t actually just like the time period shopper,” and that, accordingly, he sees the regional and native dimension as one which Safilo should be extra attentive to.

This implies the plan is to keep away from an indiscriminate distribution of the Isabel Marant assortment. Trocchia expressed confidence the road would carry robust enterprise within the first yr within the U.Okay. and North Europe, along with France. He additionally pointed to potential development within the United Arab Emirates and different areas of the Center East. The gathering might be distributed within the U.S. in a second part.

One other instance of this technique is the 10-year licensing agreement signed last year with Ports 1961, whose distribution was introduced as restricted to mainland China.

“This license is essential for the event of that area for Safilo. Chinese language shoppers will at all times be well-disposed towards main luxurious manufacturers, however I’m satisfied that they are going to be more and more extra delicate to Chinese language manufacturers in Asia,” contended Trocchia. Equally to Isabel Marant, that license gives a geographic alternative and the potential to develop a particular buyer cluster.

China is a key strategic market in our improvement plans, and we all know how necessary it’s for eyewear manufacturers to be domestically related to their goal teams, particularly in China, which may be very particular, not solely when it comes to becoming but in addition with distinct tastes and native shopper traits,” Trocchia mentioned.

Safilo’s license with Levi Strauss & Co. for the design, manufacturing and distribution of Levi’s branded eyewear collections, efficient January 2020, responds to a different enterprise technique, catering to Millennials and Gen Zers everywhere in the world, permitting the corporate the chance to develop within the up to date market phase.

Safilo has been working to revamp a brand new portfolio rapidly — an “more and more key high quality,” Trocchia mentioned, because the eyewear business has gone via main shake-ups, together with the creation of a three way partnership between LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Marcolin, known as Thélios, to provide eyewear collections for manufacturers underneath the umbrella of the French large luxurious group.

This yr marks the exit of the profitable Dior model, whereas the exit of the Fendi label is anticipated in June. Particularly, the group has been re-balancing its secure of proprietor and licensed manufacturers. This nevertheless, Trocchia cautioned, doesn’t imply a retreat from licenses, which “stay basic.” Safilo produces and distributes eyewear for labels starting from DB Eyewear by David Beckham, Missoni, Marc Jacobs and Moschino to Tommy Hilfiger and Below Armour, just lately launched within the U.S.

Safilo’s owned manufacturers, starting from the eponymous label, Polaroid, Smith and Carrera to Blenders Eyewear and Privé Revaux ought to account for greater than 50 p.c in 2024, and Trocchia mentioned he expects to achieve that concentrate on forward of that date.

As reported, Safilo revenues final yr amounted to 780.3 million euros, a 16.9 p.c drop in contrast with 939 million euros within the earlier yr.

Within the fourth quarter, gross sales grew 3 p.c at fixed change to 225.6 million euros (falling by 2.1 p.c at present change), as its Chinese language enterprise greater than tripled within the final quarter of the yr.

The current acquisitions of Blenders Eyewear and Privé Revaux additionally boosted the group’s on-line operations, with on-line enterprise rising 175.5 p.c in 2020 versus 2019.

Total, Safilo has been specializing in its digital transformation, its direct-to-consumer technique and growing its share of business-to-business.

Isabel Marant

An Isabel Marant design by Safilo. 
courtesy picture

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